Thursday, 28 February 2013
The perfect pizza is a subjective pursuit, but the thin-crust, New
York-style offerings of Slice Parlor are a welcome addition to the Duke
City dining scene
By Mike English
Does Albuquerque need more pizza joints? Most people would say no.
Between Dion’s, Il Vicino, Pizza 9, NYPD, Farina and on and on, there’s
certainly no shortage. But there’s always a niche for a well-run
restaurant that serves good pizza and salad and runs multiple taps of
quality beer. Slice Parlor again proves the point.
Slice Parlor was opened in 2011 by partners Jim Wagner, Doug Crowder and
Adam Moffett (Wagner, who was a fixture behind the counter for the
first year, recently sold his stake to Crowder and Moffett.) It is
located in former Mexican knick-knack retail space Que Chula (it was
Book Stop before that) next to the Nob Hill Flying Star.
Let’s just say it up front — I love Slice Parlor. As a resident of Nob
Hill myself, and aside from the pizza and beer (more on that in a bit),
Slice Parlor adds a unique, casual, neighborhood-joint feel to Nob
Hill’s roster of eateries. It’s the place I pop into as I walk down the
street. My standard: a quick cheese slice sprinkled with parmesan, red
pepper flakes and oregano ($3.25, and BIG), a cold pint ($4) and I’m on
If that routine sounds like a New York-style way to grab a
bite, that’s by design. Slice Parlor serves some of the finest New York
thin-crust pizza in Albuquerque, with dough and sauce made daily
in-house, mozzarella whole-milk cheese and stone deck ovens that cook
the pies at high heat for a consistent, crispy crust. Pizza preference
is often personal and subjective, but Slice Parlor cooks some of my
favorite pizza in town.
Servings are by the aforementioned slice, or in pie sizes of 18 inches
($13.99 for cheese) and a truly giant 24 inches (cheese, $21.99).
Specialty creations include such variations as the Zia (pepperoni and
green chile, $16.99/$23.99 for the 18/24), Spinach (spinach, fresh
garlic, feta, $16.99/$23.99) and Gourmet Pesto (grilled chicken, red
onions, pesto, $21.99/$28.99), to name just a few. There’s even a
gluten-free crust option. You can also add your own toppings, everything
from pickled jalapeños to bacon, which adds $.50-$.75 per slice or
$1.75-$3.50 per pizza, depending on topping and pizza size.
If you want some greens to go with all that cheese and crust, Slice
Parlor serves a nice selection of salads, ranging from a simple Side
Salad (spring mix, tomatoes, black olives, $3.49), to a more elaborate
Citrus Salad (spring mix, goat cheese, walnuts, orange slices, balsamic
There are also calzones on the menu. You can order a House Calzone
(ricotta, mozzarella, Italian sausage, $12.99), Spinach and Basil
Calzone (ricotta, mozzarella, spinach, basil, $12.99) or build your own.
3410 Central SE, 505.232.2808
That’s it — pizza, calzone and salad. It’s a straightforward
menu, topped off by one of the better draft beer selections in
Albuquerque. Slice Parlor carries Marble and La Cumbre beers, Colorado
brews like Dale’s Pale Ale from Oskar Blues of Longmont, and Goose
Island’s 312 Wheat Ale of Chicago, to name just a few of the 30 or so
beers available. Craft pints run $4, but there’s always a $3 pint
special (Dale’s Pale Ale on my most recent visit), and Wednesdays at
Slice Parlor are a beer drinker’s dream — $2 pints all day. (There are
also red and white wine options.)
It’s those specials that appeal to the quick-and-cheap side of many
diners. Slice Parlor sells its cheese slices for $1 from 2-4p on
Tuesdays, for example, and offers a two-cheese-slices-and-soda deal
every day for $6.99.
They deliver, too. I’ve had pizza brought to my house and I’ve had it
delivered across the parking lot to the Tractor Brewery tap room, even
by the slice. Tractor and Slice Parlor seem to have a mutually
beneficial, symbiotic relationship, in fact, providing yet another
option for pairing tasty pizza and beer.
With Il Vicino right across the street, I originally thought Slice
Parlor would be redundant in Nob Hill. I was wrong. It’s already a
favorite neighborhood fixture.